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Kfar Etzion, which to some is the historical and cultural epicenter of Gush Etzion, has long been a fascinating and fun place to visit. This community is home to the iconic Kfar Etzion Field School, the Sound and Light Experience, and our favorite local event “hall,” the Bedouin Tent.
It’s also where you’ll find Givat HaSelaim, a historical site turned picnic and hiking area, where the last defenders of the Gush Etzion settlement fell to the Jordanian Legion in 1948.
In the past decade or so, Kfar Etzion has really grown and expanded, becoming a hot spot for both tourists and locals. People from all over like to stop by the Naot factory outlet, the local craft pizza store and beer bar (Nino’s), and, of course, everyone’s favorite ice cream spot, Katzefet.
But Kfar Etzion now boasts even more fun attractions. Between the main thoroughfare and the Lulim (chicken coops turned into artsy stores and cafés), there’s just a ton to do in this Gush Etzion kibbutz.
My husband and I really enjoy spending time there. Sometimes, we’ll grab coffee and croissants and go for a long walk through the local woodlands. Other times, it’s pizza and beer after a long day on the Israel Trail. We’ve had family picnics at Givat HaSelaim and spent Friday mornings browsing the stalls at the local Farmer’s Market.
This past Friday morning, we decided to head over for a bit of nature and fun, and document it for Hiking the Holyland. This post is kind of a choose-your-own-adventure — you can include as much nature, history, or foodie fun as you’d like in your personal Kfar Etzion experience.
Lehem Talmi
We knew our Friday morning adventure had to begin with a bakery stop. There are at least three delicious bakeries in Kfar Etzion, each with its own personality.
We debated between Madeleine, the super-popular French bakery known for its beautiful croissants and dairy pastries, and Lehem Talmi, which specializes in sourdough and also has amazing croissants.
Since we needed sourdough bread for the upcoming holidays, Lehem Talmi won out. Plus, their almond croissants are absolutely to die for. We filled our basket with pretzel bread, sourdough, and breakfast pastries. We skipped their excellent coffee — only because we had brought our own thermos from home.
If we hadn’t been on a full-scale adventure, we probably would have just sat and enjoyed our breakfast on the gorgeous pergola/deck/seating area right next to the bakery. It overlooks the hills of Gush Etzion and makes a perfect little spot to relax. But instead, we packed up our treats and headed over to Givat HaSelaim for a picnic.
Givat HaSelaim
At first glance, Givat HaSelaim — “The Hill of Rocks” — seems like just another picturesque lookout in the hills of Judea. But beneath the quiet breeze and scattered stones lies the memory of one of the most tragic and heroic battles in Israel’s modern history.
It was here, in May of 1948, that the final defenders of Gush Etzion made their last stand as the Arab Legion closed in. After days of siege and shelling, a small group of fighters—mostly kibbutz members and students from the religious pre-army academy—gathered on this hilltop. They knew the end was near, but chose to fight to the death rather than surrender the land they had worked so hard to build.
According to testimony, a white flag was raised by the exhausted defenders—but even then, nearly every last one of them was massacred. Only three survived. The event shocked the Jewish community in pre-state Israel, and helped cement Gush Etzion’s place in national memory. After 1967, the children of the fallen returned to rebuild. And Givat HaSelaim was still there — silent, but bearing witness.
As we walked the path toward the picnic area, the soft crunch of stones beneath our feet mixed with the whisper of the wind and wildflowers. It’s a place to reflect, to breathe in the history, and to appreciate how deeply rooted this land really is.
We sat on the stones, enjoyed our croissants, and drank coffee under the wide-open Judean sky. A quiet moment, but a powerful one.
In Town
After several cups of coffee and one too many almond croissants, we figured it was time to walk it off. Kfar Etzion is great for walking, with both woodland paths and regular sidewalks.
We took the scenic route toward the center of town, where the renovated Sound and Light Show is located. This immersive experience has always been a great deep dive into local history — but now, post-renovation, it’s even more powerful. We didn’t go in this time, but I highly recommend it if you’ve never seen it.
We took a few photos around the area and continued our loop walk around the outskirts of Kfar Etzion, heading toward the Lulim.
Coffee Culture
Our first stop: Coffee Culture, a relatively new coffee roastery and retail shop in Kfar Etzion. This place is for real coffee lovers. The beans are roasted on-site, the baristas know their stuff, and the atmosphere is the kind that makes you want to cozy in and stay awhile.
They offer specialty beans for sale and also run workshops for groups. But even if you’re just there for a cup, it’s going to be one of the best cappuccinos you’ve had in a long time. (We may have had a few…)
Tziona
Right past the Lulim, just next to Lehem Talmi, is Tziona, a cozy shop where you can learn about and sample locally produced beer, wine, and liqueurs. It’s also right next to a cool little wine store, worth checking out if you’re already there.
At Tziona, they’ll sit with you and talk through their various offerings. We sampled a delicious passion fruit wine and four different beers on tap, each one with its own unique flavor. Everything was so good that we couldn’t resist bringing home a six-pack of bottles for the holidays — with some expert help from the staff to choose.
Who Doesn’t Love a Farmer’s Market?
By this point, time was running out, but we weren’t going to leave without stopping by the Friday morning market. This weekly event is full of life, color, and flavor. There were stalls selling pottery, jewelry, homemade spreads, soups, baked goods, and more.
We could have spent hours drifting from booth to booth, chatting with vendors, and admiring the handcrafts — all while taking in the views of the surrounding Gush Etzion hills. But alas, our morning adventure had come to an end.
We gathered up our bags of sourdough bread and beer, and said goodbye to Kfar Etzion — for now. We’ll definitely be back. With its mix of culinary delights, meaningful history, and natural beauty, it’s one of the best half-day escapes you can find near Jerusalem.
Hikers’ Notes:
If you go right now (June), you can also hit the annual cherry picking festival in Gush Etzion! Search online for more info.
Waze links at the top of the page will get you to Givat HaSelaim. For everything else, just head on over and explore (except the Audiovisual tour – for that, you need to reserve.). Most of the shops are located right at the entrance, and any local will help direct you.
