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| Trail Map |  Hike it with Google Earth | Terrain View |
| Distance: 12.6km | Time: 3-4 hours | Difficulty: Moderae-Strenuous |
| Ascent: 352m |  Trailhead and Markers Gallery |
The desert has always been one of our favorite places to hike, especially during cooler months. For us, late fall is, traditionally, desert season. At autumn time, there’s less rain, and a lower risk of flash floods than in wintertime. At the same time, the temperatures are finally cool enough to make desert hiking a real possibility. And at this point in Israel’s official rainy season, there are few flower-filled trails to entice us away from our much-loved desert treks.
Since the war started, we haven’t really done much desert hiking. So, with things feeling just a bit calmer this autumn, we were looking forward to resuming our favorite fall-time activity.
It was with this in mind that we turned to the map to plan out a Negev hike last Thursday. We were looking for a trail that we could easily complete in a day, while the kids were in school. Ever since our full moon hike at Nahal Havarim, we’ve been itching to return to the Sde Boker area. In this magnificent part of the Negev, there are so many trails we have yet to travel. An easy choice for Thursday morning was a 12 kilometer loop trail through Nahal Tzin, or the Zin Valley, near Ein Avdat.
Not at all surprisingly, our hike was magnificent, full of quiet beauty and spectacular scenery that one can only encounter in the dessert. We encountered awesome rock formations, lots of birds and wildlife, a hidden spring, and the beginnings of rainy season greenery. And although this part of the country is not close (more than an hour and a half drive from home), we managed to complete the whole adventure by mid-afternoon.
Here’s how we hiked this 12 kilometer circular trail through Zin Valley:
Easy Opening
After a long and relaxing drive (so much better than trying to drive on the traffic filled roads of Central Israel), we hopped out of the car and hit the trail. The weather in Sde Boker was beautiful that morning. We had come expecting cool temperatures and cloudy skies, but within minutes, we had stripped away our light jackets and were enjoying the morning sunshine.
The first part of the trail was wide and flat, the type of path that can accommodate jeeps. Sometimes, this type of pathway can be a bit boring. But in the desert, it is anything but.
We walked along in the open desert terrain, marveling at new greenery on the sides of the trail. In the distance, we could see sheer peaks, desert cliffs, and gorgeous rock formations.
It was nice to have some easy walking to start the day. On this wide, flat trail, we were able to keep up a steady pace and stretch our legs after the long drive.
Okay, but Coffee Time?
We did pass by some interesting sights. For example, there was some sort of iron pipe sticking out of the rock, remnants of an attempt to dig a well. After digging for 800 meters, it was decided that the well was too deep to be worthwhile, so they covered it with a pipe of sorts. According to a note on the map, rocks dropped into the pipe made a magnificent shrieking noise, due to the lengthy distance of the fall into the water below. We decided to test it out. And, indeed, loud shrieks were heard!
Our walk along this wide, flat path was supposed to continue along for a while, about half of the distance of the total hike. As we hiked, we discussed what to do about breakfast. After a drive and a few kilometers, it wasn’t exactly early in the morning anymore, and we were both really wanting some coffee. We could wait until we reached the midway point at Akev Spring. But, we surmised, the spring would probably be the only part of the entire hike where lots of other people were congregated, making it a less than ideal breakfast spot.
Instead, we climbed up to a quiet corner tucked up and off the trail, on a little hill. From this hill, we had a great view out to the scenery, including a puffy cloud filled sky. This was our breakfast spot.
We pulled out our hot coffee and breakfast and enjoyed a relaxing picnic with a view.
Towards Akev Spring
The next main attraction of the day was Ein Akev, a beautiful spring right in the middle of the desert. We knew of its existence because we had been there before. But even so, we were surprised to see flowing water and tall reeds protruding from a path of desert rock. We followed the greenery towards Akev Spring where (no surprise!), several groups of people were congregated.
A group of adults swam in the cool pool while a crowd of kids cooked a merry (and delicious smelling) meal nearby. The area was hopping and popping, just as we expected it to be. We decided right then and there that one day, we would return to Ein Akev at sunrise, so we could capture the desert oasis in still silence.
Talk to Strangers
After spending some time gazing into the water at Akev Spring, we followed the trail up and out of the valley. A ladder led us up a sheer cliff. As I approached the top, there was no way to see what was beyond the ladder – it was as if I was climbing out of a box and into another world.
And as my head cleared the ladder, I saw a pair of hiking boots approaching. The boots were connected to a man wearing an Israel Trail tshirt, with an oversized backpack and friendly grin. He was as surprised to see me as I was him.
“Hey, ma nishma?” he asked with a smile.
We made jokes together and took pictures of each other, then wished one another well and set out on our way.
The Best Part of the Hike
After this meeting, the trail began to ascend, up, up, up onto magnificent desert cliffs. White rock in cool formations framed the trail. The view out to the surroundings was incredible. In the distance, a flat topped mountain loomed. As I lifted my camera to take a picture, I caught a photo bomber instead:
If we could have chosen any spot to stop and have coffee, this definitely would have been it. It felt like we were utterly alone, yet in a vast world of beauty. Instead, we just sat there for a while, our mouths agape at the epic view that surrounded us.
What Goes Up Must Come Down
After that, we hiked along, enjoying ever changing scenery. We passed a Bedouin encampment, a field of small boulders, and smooth terrain. Then, we walked along the side of a cliff for a while. We knew that the trail would soon come to an end – the parking area was close by, but somewhere, we still had a massive descent ahead.
Then, all of a sudden, we found our descent, a steep walk down a massively high cliff. Surprisingly, the hike down wasn’t particularly difficult – there were no ladders, no dangerous drops. But it did take us a while to descend and reach the parking area below.
Soon, we were back at the trailhead, getting ready for the long drive home. The trip had been well worth it. Our hike that day was spectacular, and soul-inspiring.
This magnificent journey through Zin Valley near Sde Boker was a wonderful way to get reacquainted with Israel’s beautiful Negev desert.
Hikers’ Notes:
Here’s what you need to know to hike this trail at Zin Valley to Ein Akev:
- This is a circular trail.
- This trail is best suited to cooler days in the fall, winter and spring.
- Enjoy swimming at Ein Akev, mid way through the hike!
- We didn't bring a dog, but I don't see why this trail would not be suitable for dogs.
- To follow the trail, take red to blue. Then turn right on blue and follow it to Ein Akev. After visiting the spring, loop back a few meters and find the blue trail going up the hill. Follow the blue trail up the ladder, then follow the green trail to the right all the way back to your car.
Don’t forget to read my guide to the navigational features in this post before you hit the trail!
Trail map from Amud Anan.
