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Distance: 13.5km | Time: 6 hours | Difficulty: Moderate |
Ascent: 100m | End Point in Ga'ash | End Point in Ga'ash |
Israel Trail, Netanya Style
It’s hard to believe that we’ve been hiking the Israel Trail for over two (almost three!) years. This trail has been one of the biggest gifts in my life, taking us through good times and bad times, with new and wonderful friends, as we slowly make our way southward from the northernmost tip of Israel.
On our last trip (a sunset hike) we finally reached Netanya. And yesterday, we embarked on the next stretch: our 25th segment from Netanya to Kibbutz Ga’ash.
Perhaps not surprisingly, I didn’t expect much from this piece of trail. Yes, Poleg Stream and Nature Reserve are beautiful, but they were mostly long stretches of coast, after all. I was anticipating a beautiful, long walk along the beach, without much excitement.
But I was completely wrong. It’s incredible how the Israel Trail manages to take hikers on a journey through history and nature – wherever we find ourselves in Israel.
On yesterday’s spectacular segment, we got an inside look at Netanya (a gorgeous, growing city). We experienced a fascinating Holocaust memorial, then walked through the water towards the Poleg Stream and Reserve. There, we saw coastal flowers with biblical stories, Irises hiding out until wintertime, and so much natural beauty. We stumbled upon a forest nesting ground for hundreds of parakeets, and we took in the magical beauty of Ga’ash cliffs over the Mediterranean Sea.
It’s amazing to think that one could learn about and experience so much in only 13.5 kilometers of Central Israel hiking.
Here’s how we hiked this gorgeous stretch of the Israel Trail from Netanya to Ga’ash:
Netanya – City of Love
Did you know that there are two “I Love Netanya” signs? We learned this the hard way, when we routed our crowd to one sign instead of the other.
It’s no surprise that people love this city. It’s gorgeous, quiet, and calm. Apartments and townhouses look out over a beautiful coastline, complete with a boardwalk and biking path. There’s a large selection of kosher restaurants, convenient shopping, and more in town. But it feels peaceful, almost tranquil.
We began our hike on the Netanya boardwalk, proceeding along the water to the Russian Victory Monument, commemorating the Red Army’s defeat of Nazi Germany in World War II. Everyone in our group had been to big Holocaust memorials before, but something about this creatively rendered experience on the sea was different.
Walking through the tight, grey walls of the memorial, we were faced with emotionally evocative, carved images. At the end of the passageway, we emerged towards two giant stone “wings”, just above the sea. It was truly spectacular. From there, we proceeded through the park towards a real cattle car, used to transport Jews in the Holocaust.
Then we followed the trail on the road, through the streets of Netanya.
Iris Reserve
Afterwards, we crossed over a (very cool) bridge and made our way into the Iris Reserve. Of course, in late September, there weren’t any Irises in the reserve. But we made plans to come back in February, to see the purple explosion in the park.
On this visit, we learned about the local animals, and how they find their way back towards the sea through urban expansion. We saw squill flowers and a white coastal lily (Havatzelet HaSharon, mentioned in Song of Songs), and learned about their seeds and life cycle. And we even learned about the famed Rotem plant (broom bush), where Elijah the prophet rested in the wilderness before his conversation with God. It was quite fascinating to see these biblical plants just sitting on the side of the trail.
From there, it was onward through Poleg Stream and Reserve, another fascinating piece of natural history in Israel.
Poleg Reserve
The trip through Poleg began with a beach. Then, it was off over the sand dunes, towards the stream that runs to the sea.
If you’ve spent any time hiking around Israel, you’ve probably heard about Kurkar stone. We talked a lot about this sandstone during our journey, learning about the build-up of sand, and how it affects water flow and settlement.
Many coastal streams in Israel were naturally blocked by these sandstone ridges over time. This caused swampy areas to be formed where the water was not able to flow through. But Poleg Stream is different – it formed a “gate” (Sha’ar Poleg) through the sandstone, allowing the stream to flow naturally, which meant that the area was a good place to settle throughout history.
On our trip through Poleg Reserve, we encountered a jackal, an olive grove, and lots and lots of birds. But our favorite spot was the place where we stopped for lunch, underneath a Parakeet nesting ground.
Parakeets Galore
You have to see this place to believe it.
Parakeets are an invasive species in Israel. But that didn’t stop them from claiming their very own nesting ground, right in the middle of Poleg Reserve.
We stopped for lunch there, enjoying our sandwiches to the tune of hundreds of parakeet calls. The giant nests hung down from the trees, each one with several entrance holes. We watched as so many parakeets flew about, popping their heads in and out of the many entrances. It was an incredible site to behold.
After lunch, we packed up and were on our way. Next stop: Yakum Interchange!
The Easy Life
I always feel funny when we end up in commercial areas on our Israel Trail hikes – there’s a sort of dissonance about the experience. But the truth is, we were all getting kind of hot in the afternoon sun. Everyone was ready for a bathroom and refreshment break – even me!
At Yakum Interchange, there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. But I’m fairly certain that none are kosher. So, after pausing to consider the Ben and Jerry’s and popsicles in the gas station, I chose a cold drink and sat at a table in the shade with a small group.
The place was relatively quiet, and the air was breezy. There, we cooled down and enjoyed a much-appreciated break in civilization.
Back at the Trail
After Yakum Interchange, we headed towards Ga’ash Cliffs Reserve. This place never fails to provide spectacular views. We trudged through the sand (everyone in our group agreed that there is no proper footwear for this type of terrain), enjoying the coastal breezes and the unbelievable views.
This was the last part of our hike that day. And it couldn’t have been a more perfect ending.
We paused at many cliff edges for epic pictures, the blue Mediterranean framed by tawny rock and a cloud filled sky. Then, after making it through Ga’ash Reserve, we headed up to the kibbutz of Ga’ash towards the end of the trail.
Not Over Till It’s Over
And wouldn’t you know it – we arrived at the end of the trail within minutes. There, we noticed a lovely outdoor area, complete with shade and mood lighting (an outer garden of a local hall). Nobody minded that we set up our wine and cheese picnic there.
After some group stretching, we poured out red and white wine and enjoyed crackers with tomato salad, olives, and cheese. Then, we sat around talking and relaxing after our long and beautiful journey on the trail.
Another segment completed, another amazing day! Through this piece-by-piece exploration of the Israel Trail, I’ve learned so much about this incredible country that I am lucky enough to call home.
Hikers’ Notes:
Here’s what you need to know to hike this segment of the Israel Trail from Netanya to Ga’ash:
Don’t forget to read my guide to the navigational features in this post before you hit the trail!